Thakhek – Update 2018
Off the beaten track in Central Laos
Thakhek is in Khammouane Province, Central Laos. In some respects, compared to other more well-known destinations in Northern Laos, it’s a bit of a back-water. But, as more travelers begin to make their way there, the word is out Khammouane Province is the best caving area in the country. The town is also the starting point for the highly regarded THAKHEK LOOP TRIP: http://www.megaworldasia.com/laos/the-thakhek-loop-trip-update-2017/
The loop is roughly a 450 km circuit (beginning and ending in Thakhek and normally completed on locally rented motorbikes) which takes in many attractive sites including the renowned KONG LOR CAVE: http://www.megaworldasia.com/laos/kong-lor-cave/ If you have a couple of days to spare before moving on there are also some interesting caves to visit within a 20 km radius from Thakhek.
Getting to Thakhek:
This is relatively straight forward. If you’re already in Laos then it’s an eight hour bus ride South on Highway # 13 from Vientiane, or North on Highway # 13 from Savanakhet. If you’re coming from an overseas destination, the quickest way to get there is to make your way to Nakhon Phanom in Thailand then take a bus across Friendship Bridge Number Two into Laos. Thakhek and Nakhon Phanom sit directly opposite each other on the Mekong River. Nok Air –a Thai budget airline – normally has two flights per day from Bangkok to Nakhon Phanom: http://www.nokair.com/nokconnext/aspx/index.aspx
Once you arrive at Nakhon Phanom airport it’s simply a matter of taking a taxi to the bus station and then boarding a bus to Thakhek. Busses depart every 90 minutes between 8am and 5 pm and the trip is currently 70 THB each way. The ride is normally approx. 2 hours from Nakhon Phanom (Thailand) bus station to Thakhek (Laos) bus station. The journey also includes stops at immigration check points at each end of the bridge. A one month entry visa for Laos can be purchased for 30 USD when you arrive on the Laotian side of the bridge.
NOTE 1: it’s advisable to have the 30 USD in the correct amount to speed things up. One passport photo is also needed for the visa.
After arriving at Thakhek you will then need to get transport to the traveler’s accommodation area of town. This is approximately 5 km from the bus station and the only transport that is readily available is the nefarious three wheeled tuk-tuk. I say nefarious because the tuk-tuk operators understand they are the only means of transport available and take advantage of the situation by over-charging for the 5 km trip to the town center. The correct fare is 20,000 Laotian Kip but these guys will often quote double, or triple, upon initial inquiry.
Most traveler’s hotels, guesthouses, and restaurants are situated along the river front and around the town center. A popular choice for many coming to THAKHEK – due to comfortable rooms, good food, free WIFI, and a relaxed ambience – is the INTHIRA HOTEL: http://www.megaworldasia.com/hotels-and-accomodation/laos/inthira-hotel-thakhek/
The INTHIRA is also where the office of GREEN DISCOVERY LAOS is located. Green Discovery runs daily trips to the renowned KONG LOR CAVE and extended trips to one of the world’s largest river caves, the XEBANGFAI CAVE: http://www.megaworldasia.com/laos/xebangfai-cave-update-2017/
Another popular choice for cheaper accommodation is KGB GUESTHOUSE. This is in the same building as WANG WANG MOTORBIKE RENTALS. The guesthouse rooms sit above the motorbike rental premises.
NOTE 2: WANG WANG MOTOR BIKE RENTALS and KGB GUESTHOUSE is diagonally opposite the INTHIRA HOTEL
The river front, with its many roadside vendors and open air beer bars overlooking the Mekong, is just a just a short walk from the Inthira as well. The junction the INTHIRA HOTEL sits on is the main staging point for travelers arriving and leaving. It’s also the place where motor-bikes can be rented for the Loop trip and day trips to the nearby surrounds of Thakhek. For those content just to chill out in Thakhek for a couple of days the riverside, open air bars are a great spot to enjoy a couple of cold Beer Lao’s as the sun drops towards the horizon across the Mekong.
Where to eat:
The food at the INTHIRA HOTEL, although of a good standard, is a bit pricey and the portions tend to be small. The best value meals in town, in terms of price and portion size, are at the SABAIDEE THAKHEK RESTAURANT. This is located on the river front road and just 100 meters along from WANG WANG MOTORBIKE RENTALS (on the same side).
NOTE 3: As of January 2018, the owner of the SABAIDEE THAKHEK RESTAURANT is running 2 and 3 day tours to the XEBANGFAI CAVE. He is the manager of the small guesthouse at the village (Nong Ping) which sits nearby the cave entrance, just 2 km away.
Buddhist temple in Thakhek:
If you’ve got an interest in Buddhist Temples there’s one worth a look; to the right of the town center and a couple of hundred meters along the river front road.
Day trips from Thakhek:
Most of the day trip sites – mainly caves – are within easy reach of Thakhek and can be done in a single day or, as some do, as part of the Loop trip. Hire a motorbike for the day from WANG WANG MOTORBIKES, grab a map from their tour desk, and ride out to the nearby sites. In no particular order the best locations are:
- Nang Aen Cave
- Pa Chan Cave
- Pa Seuam Cave
- Kong Leng Lake
Nang Aen Cave:
Nang Aen Cave is approximately 19 km from traveler central in Thakhek. Continue on along Highway # 12, past the turn off to Buddha Cave, and you’ll eventually see the turn off to Nang Aen Cave on the right. The entrance to the Cave is much closer to the main road than Buddha Cave – less than a kilometer. At base of the cliff face there’s rest area for those wishing to partake of a cold drink, or some local food, at one of the small restaurants tucked into the shade provided by the large stand of trees. there are two sightseeing options for this cave; the initial front section and the additional boat tour which takes in the much more spectacular section at the upstream entrance. The entry fee for the initial section of the cave is 30k LAK. Pay 20k LAK more and you will be able to do the entire cave system, which includes the boat trip through the underground river and the walk through the far section of the cave which is actually the highlight of the cave. If you are pressed for time then just do the front section but if you have 2 – 3 hours then do the boat trip because I can seriously say the rear section of the cave (which opens to the jungle and mountains behind) is just so much better, words don’t do it justice. The difference in price (a mere USD 2.50) is nothing when one comperes the visual experience of both sides of the cave. The upstream side is just so much better.
NOTE 4: Nang Aen Cave is always busier on weekends due to an increase in locals and Thai visitors coming to pay their respects to the cave guardian (the lady Ann) so try to go on a week day as the numbers of visitors are much less. The entire cave system including the river passage and parts of the rear section are illuminated by internal lighting, so the trip is a reasonably safe experience.
NOTE 5: there are often power outages in Laos so as a precaution, take a back-up flashlight (torch) if you are making the boat trip. The rear section of the cave also has a solid cement stairway and steps along the entire route.
Pa Chan Cave:
There is a number of interesting cave sites along Highway # 12 (aka “cave alley”), within forty five minutes ride from Thakhek. All sites are well sign posted in English and require a detour off the main road, and onto dirt roads of varying distances, before arriving at the cave entrances. Pa Chan and Buddha Caves are down the same side road, the turn off approximately 9 kilometers from the town center. The most popular single day destination seems to be the Buddha Cave. Why this is I’m unsure because, compared with other nearby caves, it’s the least impressive in the area. Perhaps its popularity amongst sightseers is simply down to it being the easiest to get to. This is a shame really because just twenty one kilometers further on, along the same dirt road, is the far more imposing Pa Chan Cave. Perhaps it’s the extra distance, or the rough state of the road, which deters people from venturing further. Whatever the case, the journey on to Pa Chan Cave is well worth the perseverance as you’ll be rewarded with a trip through a massive natural tunnel, some five hundred meters end to end. The final two kilometers, from the last sign post, is over an open landscape of rutted, crisscrossed tracks with little indication of where you’re actually heading to. Never mind though as cave entrances are usually at the base of limestone escarpments. Beyond the open expanse of ground you’ll see some high cliffs above the tree line and, as you get closer, the apex of the entrance of Pa Chan Cave will come into view. When you see it just keep heading in that direction and eventually you’ll find a trail skirting the small river which flows from the cave. The locals have built a large, raised concrete platform on the left side of the entrance, where two large bronze Buddha statues have been placed. There’s a cement stairway up to the platform which sits approximately fifteen meters above the cave floor.
Note 6: There is a trail through the cave, but some sections are pitch black. To penetrate the full length you’ll need a torch/flash light and you should, preferably, do it with a buddy as some parts of the trail twist and turn, rise and fall, through an obstacle course of large boulders. There’s a definite risk of injury if you take a tumble from the top of one of the boulders. Be safe; take a flashlight and don’t try to do it alone
Pa Seuam Cave:
PA SEUAM CAVE is quite possibly the best half day adventure trip in the Thakhek region. It’s located in the same area as the BUDDHA CAVE and a full tour through the cave’s 400 mtrs length involves a substantial amount of swimming and wading. Because of this it’s recommended you do the trip with a caving guide from GREEN DICOVERY LAOS (tour desk is at the INTHIRA HOTEL) because you will need a life jacket and a head mounted light for the excursion.
NOTE 7: Good footwear such as hiking boots is also recommended as the stream bed, although muddy for the most part, is covered with sharp, protruding rocks. If you wear flip flops or open toed sandals, there’s a good chance you’ll sustain lacerations to your feet. ALSO, IF YOU HAVE CAMERA EQUIPMENT, USE A GOOD QUALITY DRY BAG. Make sure it doesn’t leak – something I neglected to do, hence no photos of this site.
Kong Leng Lake:
Kong Leng Lake is approximately 55 kilometers from down town Thakhek. After completing the trip in 2012 my advice, at that time, to anyone considering going there was “not to.” Major sections of the 21 kilometers of dirt road, branching off Highway # 13, were being upgraded and there were earthworks in progress which turned the road into little more than piles of sand. Six years on the road condition has improved, but it’s probably a good bet that some parts are still tough going; and even more so in the rainy season. For those willing to give it a go, a dirt bike would be a far better choice than one of those 110 CC street bikes available for hire in Thakhek.
Aside from the issues with the dirt road getting there is fairly straight forward. Go North from Thakhek on Highway # 13 and approximately 33 kilometers out of town you’ll see a sign posted turn off on the right hand side of the road. After that just follow more directional signage and don’t get too worried when parts of the track begin to resemble a goat trail; you’re still on the right track. Eventually, perhaps 5 kilometers from the lake, you’ll come to a T-Junction with another dirt road branching off to a village on the left. Disregard that and keep going straight. A few minutes later you’ll arrive at a bright blue spring fed lake. To be honest it’s probably not worth the one hour of bone jarring ride to get there but, if you do make the trip, it’s a nice spot for a swim and some lunch. Take a while to relax and wash off the dust from the ride. Being spring fed, the lake’s a bit nippy but refreshing all the same.
NOTE 8: According to WANG WANG MOTORBIKE RENTALS, Kong Leng Lake is very close – approximately 3 kilometers – to Pa Chan Cave. He mentioned something about there being a trail from the cave to the lake which bypasses a village. For those visiting Pa Chan Cave, and with some time to spare, it might be worth following up if you want to see the lake but don’t feel like the arduous ride over the dirt road. BE SAFE, DON’T GET LOST: if you decide to do this get some good local info first, get a map and take a compass, and remember this area is truly off the beaten track.
Kong Lor Cave:
This is the current hot spot and number one destination for those visiting Central Laos/Khammouane Province. Most do it as part of the THAKHEK LOOP TRIP but for those on a tight schedule, and a not so tight budget, GREEN DIsCOVERY LAOS – with a booking desk at the INTHIRA HOTEL – does single day tours to Kong Lor Cave. Transportation, to and from, is by way of minibus and prices are dependent of the number of people going for the day. Whichever way you choose to do it, it’s certainly a trip to remember. The full trip through the 7.5 kilometer cave is done in a long tail boat. During the dry season (December – April) the river can be quite shallow in places and you may be required to get out and wade for a few meters while the boat team push the boat across sections they’re unable to motor through; wear shorts and sandals or footwear you can afford to get soaked.
- Distance from Thakhek to Konglor Cave: 186 kilometers via highways # 13 and # 8
- Approximate travel time on a motorbike: 5 – 6 hours
- Approximate time for cave tour: 2 – 3 hours
Xebangfai River Cave (aka Khoun Xe Cave):
Those who make it to Kong Lor are visibly impressed and can be forgiven for thinking “it doesn’t get much better.” Let me assure you it can and it is. In the far South Eastern corner of Khammouane Province, in one of the remotest areas in Laos, there’s a river cave which dwarfs even Konglor. It has a slightly shorter internal length (6.4 km) than Kong Lor Cave but is double the internal diameter – in some places it is 120 mtrs in height from the river to the cave ceiling. XEBANGFAI CAVE is currently listed as the world’s biggest cave river. Be warned though, this is truly an off the beaten track experience. A four hour grinding drive over 95 km of outback dirt road followed by a two hour ride down the wild reaches of the Xebangfai River will eventually bring you to the entrance of Khoun Xe Cave. There are currently two local tour operators in Thakhek doing 2 – 3 day expeditions to the cave which involve camping out in the wilds and a full day of kayaking through the 6.4 kilometer length of XEBANGFAI CAVE. It’s a true Indiana Jones style adventure and the caving trip of a life time.
Note 9: www.greendiscoverylaos.com at the INTHIRA HOTEL, THAKHEK and the SABAIDEE THAKHEK RESTAURANT are the two local operators doing extended kayaking trips to XEBANGFAI CAVE.
Note 10: Khoun Xe Cave is right up on the border of Vietnam. During the dry/cool season night time temperatures can be rather cold; take a jacket. The trip through the cave can be physically challenging. With a number of stops required to climb across cave rapids it’s recommended you use solid footwear as a lot of the rock falls have sharp edges. Approximate time inside, to complete the 13.8 kilometer traverse (end to end and back), is 6 – 8 hours. Taken it as a give you’ll get hot, sweaty and covered in dirt and mud. If you’ve got camera gear, take a dry bag because you’ll be hopping in and out of the kayaks regularly to make trips up into the cave side chambers.
Thakhek travel info
Location: Khamouane Province, Central Laos
Getting there from Vientiane: South on Highway # 13
Getting there from Savanakhet: North on Highway # 13
Getting there from Thailand: From Nakhon Phanom and across Friendship Bridge # 2. Busses depart from Nakhom Phanom bus station every 90 minutes and normally take 2 hours to arrive at the Thakhek bus station (this also includes the stoppage time at the immigration check points on each side of the bridge). It is the same procedure in reverse if coming across from Thakhek to Nakhon Phanom.
Best travelers accommodation/restaurant in town: The INTHIRA HOTEL
ATM machine: Directly across the road from the Inthira Hotel
Motor bike rentals: 80,000 – 100,000 LAK per day (WANG WANG MOTORBIKE RENTALS)
Average time to complete the Loop: 3 – 4 days
Shortest distance from Thakhek to Konglor Cave: 186 kilometers on Highways # 13 and # 8